{"id":360335,"date":"2026-07-31T15:21:33","date_gmt":"2026-07-31T15:21:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/accountants4yourbusiness.co.uk\/uncategorized\/1989-la-chapelle-hermitage-thirty-seven-years-after\/"},"modified":"2026-07-31T15:21:33","modified_gmt":"2026-07-31T15:21:33","slug":"1989-la-chapelle-hermitage-thirty-seven-years-after","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/accountants4yourbusiness.co.uk\/?p=360335","title":{"rendered":"1989 La Chapelle Hermitage – Thirty-Seven Years After"},"content":{"rendered":"


\n<\/p>\n

\n
<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n

T<\/span>here is another story I really want to tell, but
\nthis one comes first. Last week I had a few fellows over for a birthday meal \u2014
\nthey were all (or had already turned) 50, and I was 25 years ahead of
\nthem. Good for them: they still have more time than I do to do whatever they
\nneed to do in this life. For my part, I have spent years doing things I wanted
\nto do and had to do. One of them was collecting wine. For this evening, I
\npulled out one of four remaining bottles of 1989 La Chapelle Hermitage from
\nPaul Jaboulet.<\/span><\/p>\n

In the last century, I obtained three cases of this wine \u2014 one
\ncase of the 1985 and two cases of the 1989 \u2014 intending to enjoy them for
\nspecial occasions over the years: holidays mainly, but special birthdays too.
\nOver time I got to know this wine well; it became something like a member of
\nthe family. I tried both vintages as the years passed, but found the 1985 was
\ndeveloping faster than the 1989 \u2014 which was fortunate, since I only had one
\ncase of the 1985. That vintage is long gone, but the 1989s carried me forward
\nto this point. Three bottles remain.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n

When we opened the wine this past weekend, it was in company
\nwith some older wines and some younger ones. It wasn’t a competition, but the
\ninevitable comparison happens anyway \u2014 which is normal, though not what this
\nwine really needed. The wine that “surpassed” it that night was a
\n2006 Vietti Barolo Villero, and it truly was the wine of the night: it went
\nwell with the food, stood up to decanting, and breezed through the evening.<\/span><\/p>\n

The ’89 Hermitage stood back. It was older. It had had its
\nday. But it wasn’t dead \u2014 it just called for a different approach. And this is
\nwhere I had one of those “aha” moments one gets occasionally, or
\nrarely, in wine. This wine talked to me, as it has over the years, and told me
\nthis really wasn’t the right time for it to be opened. Nonetheless, here we
\nwere. So this is what we got.<\/span><\/p>\n

I’m sitting in a large boat, and we’ve just gone through a day
\non the water. About two-thirds through, we hit rough seas \u2014 challenging waves,
\nbut nothing the boat couldn’t handle. It worked its way through the choppy
\nwater; in fact, it was a brilliant ride. The wind, the sun, the atomized water
\nin the face, the gulls above, the porpoises, the orca and her two calves
\nfrolicking alongside.<\/span><\/p>\n

And then a calm sea. Serenity. Silence. Dead silence.<\/span><\/p>\n

That was what the wine was like that night. Just like that.<\/span><\/p>\n

But that isn’t the reason I’m writing this. There’s another
\npart of the story.<\/span><\/p>\n

We like to open wines and get the story right off: What does
\nit smell like? How’s the color? How does it taste? Is it pleasant to drink now,
\nor should we wait a few years (too late!)?<\/span><\/p>\n

Wine writers and critics do this all the time, often posting a
\nnumerical score at the end to signal a wine’s worthiness to be bought,
\ncollected, consumed.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n


What I’ve found with the 1989 La Chapelle, over the years, as
\nwe’ve both grown older together, is that the wine has become less a thing to
\nanalyze and evaluate and more a companion in time. Like a family member, it’s
\nhad its ups and downs \u2014 crumbled corks, plenty of sediment.<\/span><\/p>\n

I know the saying “there are no great vintages, only
\ngreat bottles” gets repeated often, and I understand why people find truth
\nin it. But when you spend over thirty years with a wine, tasting it when it \u2014
\nand you \u2014 are young, and then open it during memorable moments, it becomes
\nsomething else. It isn’t a perfect “100.” That would be ludicrous,
\nand to me, disrespectful. It has had a life, and those bottles, in my care,
\nhave shown what kind of life that’s been.<\/span><\/p>\n

When I got the wine, it was fresh, firm, healthy, from a good
\nif not great vintage. That’s why I collected it. I had read, pre-internet, that
\nHermitage had the possibility of a long life \u2014 fifty years or more \u2014 from
\nhistorical accounts. I thought, well, I’ll be around then, even though it’s a
\nlong time. Why not stock up and see where this wine goes? Thirty-seven years
\nlater (which went by in a flash, by the way), here we are, in the last stages
\nof a wine collected to be opened and enjoyed over time.<\/span><\/p>\n

Evaluated? Of course \u2014 we took the quality into account. But
\nthere was an overriding aspect to one’s relationship with this wine that was
\nmore personal, more intimate. We were both living things moving through time
\ntogether, and in the act of drinking it, becoming one with each other in some
\nway. It affected me, it influenced me, it pleased me, surely \u2014 but it also
\nnourished me.<\/span><\/p>\n

And lest this seem like it was only about me: those around me
\npartook in the wine too. Some of those people are no longer with us \u2014 my wife
\nLiz, my mother, my aunts, friends who have passed on or moved away. It was a
\nwonderful experience to have opened and shared this wine, for exactly what it
\nwas made for. And to me, if one is to love wine, that’s the reason: this is
\nwhat that love looks like. The wine wasn’t always perfect. But the journey with
\nit has been exactly that.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Dino Illuminati and Emidio Pepe\u00a0<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

\u00a0P.S. \u2014 There’s a coda to this story I couldn’t have planned. As of this year, the winemaking at Paul Jaboulet A\u00een\u00e9’s Domaine de la Chapelle \u2014 the very wine this essay is about \u2014 has passed from Caroline Frey to Chiara Pepe, an Italian, from Abruzzo’s Emidio Pepe estate. Abruzzo isn’t just a region to me; it’s an area, and a particular one \u2014 Emidio Pepe, which I have long followed and loved, sits a short drive from Dino Illuminati’s winery in Controguerra, another winery I’ve worked with and also loved for years, in a corner of Italy I know well. That an Italian hand, from a family and a place I hold close, is now shaping the future of a wine that’s been part of my life for thirty-seven years \u2014 I couldn’t have made that up if I tried. Some things just line up.<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\nwine blog +\u00a0 Italian wine blog + Italy W<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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