In 2023, the Green Dragon and I had an epic trip to Argentina. Spanning the country from the northernmost provinces to the chilly waters of Patagonia, it was a journey filled with tango, gauchos, glaciers, and wine – yes, quite a bit of wine.
“Egad,” I exclaimed as I recently reviewed my CellarTracker listing of our wine stash. It had been three years since we left Buenos Aires, and some of the tantalizing wine we stuffed into our suitcases for the trip home was nearing the end of its prime drinking window.
At Green Dragon’s urging, we put together an Argentinian wine dinner with a guest list of fun people with leading-edge culinary skills. During most of these events, my role is typically popping corks and being a bon vivant who keeps the good times rolling. However, this time I was pressed into action and donned the apron to rustle up two special dishes.
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There is only one way to start an Argentinian feast: with picada – a table overflowing with bite-sized snacks served with plenty of wine. We feasted on a beautiful spread by Tony and Amy featuring four different cheese varieties and a selection of salami and prosciutto. John and Kathy provided scrumptious bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with goat cheese.
The opening act was paired with the 2021 Adentro Torrontés, 2020 Vistandes Malbec Gradum, and Fernando de Castilla sweet Vermouth. The vermouth, thoughtfully provided by John C., who picked it up in Spain, was served with an orange slice and a dash of soda. Vermouth is a cornerstone of Argentinian drinking culture, often featured at the vermouth hour before a meal.
Fingers were crossed as I opened the Adentro Torrontés. Five years on a white wine can be pushing it (of course, there are exceptions). We picked up the bottle at a wine tasting in Mendoza and were knocked out by its white blossom and citrus aroma. The wine comes from the Salta region, with vineyards 8,800 feet above sea level. The palate has lovely orchard fruit notes and flowing minerality. This wine, it turns out, was in pristine condition.
Patios de Cafayate was an enchanting French-style estate where we stayed during our visit to the Salta area. It is next door to Bodega El Esteco, a state-of-the-art winery producing premium wines. How convenient!
We uncorked El Esteco Metodo Tradicional Brut sparkling wine with our appetizer, a Patagonian-style crab dish prepared by Green Dragon. The crab and bubbles were a delicious match.
While Argentina is well-known for its tasty beef, in the south of the country, lamb is the meat of choice. And so for the first main dish, I prepared Empanadas de Cordero, made with lamb meat, olives, onions, herbs, and a raisin (to keep it moist). This was served with a tasty sweet potato mash. The 2020 Bodega Familia Schroeder Saurus Red Blend combines Merlot, Malbec, and Pinot Noir with a splash of Sauvignon Blanc. Dinosaur bones were found in the vineyard, hence the name.
Our next dish was a showstopper. Diane prepared Carbonada Criolla, a classic, hearty Argentine beef stew with savory meat, root vegetables, and sweet fruit cooked and served from a hollowed-out pumpkin.
It was a delightful mélange of flavors, and the dish included pieces of cooked pumpkin. This was paired with one of our most special wines from Argentina, the 2018 Hellas del Limay Pinot Noir Reserva. We visited a wine shop in the Patagonian city of Calafate and had an amazing tasting. I was surprised that Pinot Noir flourished in the chilly climate, but indeed it does. This Pinot has red raspberry notes, creamy oak, and earthy undertones.
Aided by Tony on the grill, I was batting cleanup with the final main dish: Grilled Flank Steak and Gnocchi with a red wine reduction sauce. In Argentina, gnocchi is typically served on the 29th of the month because household money is in short supply. Some coins are usually placed under the plate to help attract good luck.
With a wonderful char on the outside and the meat thermometer reading just right, we proceeded to slice our beef. Upon discovering a red center, I added a slight sear on the stovetop; however, a couple of our guests were delighted to have the dish served rare. This was paired with a high-altitude 2022 El Esteco Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine delivered delicious dark fruit, chocolate, and savory notes. The aging in American oak provided excellent chewy tannins.
Sue took on the task of preparing dessert. For her, there was only one choice: alfajores, the sweet delicacy that is an Argentinian favorite. Alfajores are tender sandwich cookies generously filled with dulce de leche. These savory bites reminded me of our nights in Salta. The city square came alive with music from the cafes, people strolling through the park, and kioskos selling all sorts of goods, including plenty of alfajores. I bought quite a few – but they were too good to last all the way home.
Thanks to all the guests who made this Argentinian wine dinner a special celebration.
